We’re leaving our cozy set up in Muizenberg (Cape Town), where we’ve been staying with Chesney’s aunt, uncle, and grandmother for the past 2 months…. to start South Africa’s beautiful Garden Route!
We’re just going for a week; driving out to Plettenberg Bay and back. The Garden Route is technically just the stretch between Mossel Bay and Storms River, but I’m going to count the whole trip from Cape Town for all intents and purposes.
Chesney was going to start the day by rock climbing with his cousin and her partner (cousin-in-law? Am I a cousin in law too? Is it still the law if we’re not actually married?) but the weather is not playing ball. AND he sliced a piece of his finger off last night cooking dinner. Not exactly ideal for touching raw rocks in the rain.
One of the main stops I wanted to make this week was in Hermanus, and it’s the first point of interest along our route. Apparently this has been nicknamed the “Whale Watching Capital of the World” – by someone, I dunno. We’re in the middle of whale season and apparently you don’t even need to take a boat out, you can just see them hanging out from viewpoints around the town. Free whale watching? Sign me up!
We wanted to take the coastal road all the way from Cape Town to Hermanus. But we came across a major road block in Gordon’s Bay, just an hour from our starting point, which forces us to reroute more inland. And now that we’re in Hermanus, the weather has only gotten worse and there’s absolutely NO way we’re going to see any whales. BUT we’ve gotten an epic recommendation from Chesney’s aunt to visit a coastal cave restaurant. Love the coast, love a cave, say no more.
There are reserved signs on literally every table, and even though we haven’t called ahead, they seat us at a small table right near the entrance. The road trip gods are watching over us, because we can hear several hopeful diners get turned away because there’s no space. We order seafood potjie, which is like a South African stew made in a big cauldron. Everything exceeds expectations and life is good (though no whales have been spotted).
Our next and final stop for today is L’Arghus. We drive through the national park on iron-rich dirt roads that leave our white car (K, Chesney’s aunt’s car) looking a little orange. I have to be careful to dodge some tortoises and Guinea fowl – South African birds that kinda look like silly little turkey/chickens with blue heads.
L’Arghus reminds us both of some places we visited on long road trips in New Zealand and Canada. What is it about small towns all over the world that give them the same vibe? They’re all unique, yet somehow the same. Almost always in a charming way, like this one.
Our Airbnb host meets us to give us the keys to her DIY garage-turned-rental-unit. The weather has chilled out a bit so we take the opportunity to visit the big attraction – the southern tip of Africa. By chilled out a bit, I just mean it’s not raining, so the weather is still intense but it really just adds to the drama of the rocky coastal walk.
We choose from one of maybe three restaurants in town to go for dinner & watch the rugby. I am in no way a sports person, and neither is Chesney, but it’s the semi finals of the World Cup, so we must watch. South Africa is playing England, and this game determines whether there will be an ultimate South Africa vs. New Zealand showdown so it’s more exciting than usual. BUT it’s awkward when South Africa is losing and everyone leaves the bar. So we leave too, with about 20 minutes left of the game.
When we get back to the Airbnb, we learn that South Africa made a miraculous come back and won by one point.
When we get to Plettenberg Bay, we have the opportunity to go either: swimming with seals or go “kloofing” – kinda like canyoning. What do you think?
What an adventure! Can’t wait to hear what you chose: swimming with seals or canyoning.