We thought it would be cool to visit the Point of Human Origin this morning before hitting the road, but didn’t realize we couldn’t just explore at our own pace. It’s a 90-minute tour that requires pre-booking, and in my typical fashion, I didn’t check until about 8:30am. It seems super cool because it contains some of the earliest human artifacts, but it’s not a priority and I’m not even sure we’d get in at this point if we tried. We decide to leave it for the proverbial “next time.”
Searching for coffee shops along our route, we find one called Elvis Brew Co. that looks like it’s basically in the George airport.
Weird location, but super cute and has everything from artisanal trinkets and food to craft beer.
It is 10am though, so we just stick to coffee, tea, and a pepper steak pie.
Wilderness is the name of a town (Hi, I live in Wilderness — not THE Wilderness.) and everyone has raved about the beach here so we make a pit stop for some fresh air and to stretch our legs. *Shout out to New Zealand’s deputy Prime Minister for making this hilarious mistake and ruining that phrase for me.*
By the time we hit Sedgefield, we’re hungry and the Wild Oats Community Farmer’s Market is nearby. The rows of market stalls are shut, but a little restaurant advertising food, craft beer, and gin is open. Sounds like the perfect place for lunch! We’re the only people here and the bartender is super chatty and keen to give us tips on what to do when we get to Knysna, our next and final stop along the Garden Route.
It’s my turn to drive for the last leg of today’s journey, so Chesney gets a beer paddle with our unfathomably cheap meals. He worked in both beer and gin marketing when we lived in New Zealand so he’s obviously keen to try the little craft gins too. We also grab a couple bottles of the beers to bring with us to the Airbnb so I can try them.
SO how much do you think two lunches, one beer flight, one gin flight, four takeaway beers, and one coke zero cost? 460 Rand. Yes, $25. I paid just 60 Rand ($3 USD) for chicken tenders, onion rings, and a salad? How???
We arrive in Knysna with our fresh list of recommendations from our friendly bartender. She realllllly talked up Bollard’s Bay Beach, And sure, it’s nice and we spot a seal swimming by, but Knysna Head viewpoint takes the cake. From the main wooden viewing deck, we get an incredible view of the rocky beach and gradient of clear blue waters below. An otter, that looks tiny from up here but must be huge in real life for us to even be able to see it, swims up to the shore. There are people about 20 metres from it, but because he’s on the other side of a rocky outcrop, they have no idea. I wonder how often you’re close to animals like this without even realizing it.
We also drive down to the beach after we’re at the viewpoint, keeping our eyes peeled for otters, but no such luck. It’s still fun to explore though!
Across the lagoon we’re facing the Featherbed Nature Reserve and can see a big cave and a bit of a hiking trail. It looks epic so that’ll have to be tomorrow’s activity! We’re here in Knysna for three nights, and still haven’t totally decided whether we want to go swimming with seals or canyoning the day after tomorrow. After seeing the seal playing around by the beach though we’re leaning more in that direction. We can go canyoning in New Zealand ya know? I don’t know how many other places in the world let you swim with the seals.
Before going to check in to our Airbnb, we grab some oysters. We are on a shoestring budget BUT Knysna is famous for its oysters so like, when in Rome right? Our host recommended this famous spot in the harbour that does different types, and I mean *different*.
Chesney goes for the classic tasting plate that includes four different types of plain oysters – basically just different sizes if we’re being honest. I get a tasting plate with four weird ones. The lineup: teriyaki, tempura, sushi, and blue cheese. Yeah, that took a bit of a turn at the end there, didn’t it? I didn’t choose them individually, that’s just the set. I don’t make the rules.
But regardless of how weird this selection is, it’s delish. The sushi one comes with an actual piece of salmon sushi placed neatly in the oyster shell — the oyster itself is sitting next to it, pickled, and topped with ginger and wasabi. The blue cheese oyster is baked, the tempura one is, you guessed it, tempura-battered, and the teriyaki one is just a regular oyster covered in terikyaki sauce. All special in their own little way lol.
Our Airbnb? Maybe not quite as cute as the greenhouse we had yesterday in Mossel Bay. But it’s more spacious and has some really nice touches, including an “honesty fridge” which I’ve never seen before in all my years of Airbnb use. They’ve provided a couple cold drinks and stuck little labels on them with pricing, with a note just ask that we leave them some cash or replace the drinks before we go. How insanely convenient is that? Other hosts take notes! Though I’d love to know how often people just like… don’t pay or replace the thing.
I’ve heard of Knysna so many times, but honestly…I don’t know that I’ve seen it written. Reading your blog, I got hung up on the cool spelling and had to look it up to be sure it wasn’t a typo.
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“I wonder how often you’re close to animals like this without even realizing it.” I love your wondering!